Echoes of Intramuros Manila: Tombstones on the Streets

Chinese Writing on Paved Stones, Intramuros

During the 250 years of the Manila-Acapulco Galleon Trade, Chinese merchants sold almost every item for which they could earn money. Even the blocks of granite that were used as ballasts to keep the Chinese junks balanced and steady throughout the journey from China became big business. The merchants would arrive, sell their wares, and then go back to China with their ships filled with Philippine hardwood, rice, silver, beeswax, and other products. 

These granite stone ballasts became known as piedra china (piedra de china). The demand grew because these ballasts were used as flooring for houses, buildings, and even as roads. 


In the heritage resort of Las Casas de Acuzar in Bataan, one of the houses there, Casa Hidalgo, has an entire block of piedra china covering a section of its ground level or zaguan. The house was originally built in Quiapo in the 19th century and was celebrated for its unique Ionic columns. The piedra china was part of the carriage way of the house. The house and its materials were transported to Bagac in 2006.


Piedra China, Casa Hidalgo, Bataan

Different sizes were sourced from the imported blocks of piedra china, and standard sizing became the norm. There were the elongated ones that are measured as 150 to 250 centimeters long by 20 to 40 centimeters wide. Another size was 60 centimeters square and four to five inches thick. 


Because of the popularity of piedra china, which caused a high demand, Chinese merchants became resourceful and started bringing wide, flat stones that seemed to resemble tombstones or markers. How can we say these are meant for graves? One theory was the Chinese lettering found on these stones. These markers might have been prepared as gravestones by enterprising artisans or merchants, but since exporting them was more valuable, they became a commodity. 


These stones were then cut into standard paving blocks. You can still see examples of these marked stones on the streets of Intramuros, particularly General Luna, Cabildo, and Real, as well as the parking area of San Agustin Church. 


Tombstones as road materials? Is it a historical myth or reality? We cannot prove or disprove it because of the lack of historical data. 


On your next visit to Intramuros, try to look for these stones that have Chinese writing on them. Please remember to be respectful of our heritage sites and places. Don't resort to vandalism or destruction. We want to ensure that future generations will also have the opportunity to learn and enjoy them.


Intramuros Manila, piedra china stones with Chinese writing





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References:


La Casa De Dios: The Legacy of Filipino-Hispanic Churches in the Philippines. Fr. Rene B. Javellana, SJ. Ortigas Foundation. 2010


Philippine Heritage Homes: A Guidebook. Jaime C. Laya, Maria Christina V. Turralba, Martin I. Tinio. Turralba, Foundation Inc., and Anvil, Publishing Inc. 2014



Additional Readings:


A Visual Tour of Philippine Lapidas and Tombstones


Why Are Chinese Lions Guarding Philippine Churches


National Treasure: The Via Crucis By An Unknown Bohol Master


Cebu's Parian District: Who Are the People in Your Neighborhood



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